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\E.vtracl form Traasnctions of tha (Jiumdiun Institute, ISllO,^ 


[The writer of the following interestinj; account of the above journey was the late yon. Alex- 
ander Mnciionell, one of the liest known of the early citizens of Toronto. He wa^ Ijorn in 1762, 
:ii Fort Aut;uslus, Jnvemcsshire, Scotland, .nnil was the son of ('apt. Allan Macduncll, who with 
his family and other relatives cMiigralcd in 1773 *" ''"^ Mohawk Valley, in the then British 
Province of New York. When the Revolutionary war broke out in 1776, the Loyalist Scottish 
settlement, to which the Macdonells belonged wa^ disarmed, and Capt. Allan Mac<lonell was, 
with others, imprisoned as a hostuj^e for the neuliality of his kinsmen and neijjhbors. Sir John 
Johnston and a number of the other settlers on the .Mohawk, in May 1776, started to traversf 
the wilderness lyinj; between them and Montreal, and in nineteen days reached their destination 
after uiulerjjoin}; the greatest haidship^. Of these Loyalist jiioneers young Alexander Mac- 
doiiell was one. He soon afterwards, at the .ige of sixteen, enlisted as a cadet in the "Royal 
Highland Kmigrants," subsequently numbered the 84th Regiment. After several years of active 
service he was transferretl to " Butler's Raui^'crs," and as a member of this famous corps he 
took part in many stirring military episodes. After the conclusion ot the war, Capt. Allan 
Macdontll and his family received grants of land in Canada, then the Province of Quebec, and 
they resided near Quebec city until the father's death, which took place shortly after their arrival. 
Mis, Macdonell and her family niove<l to Kingston, .and afterwards to Newark, now Niagara, 
when it iiecame the capital of the new Province of L'pper Canada. Governor Simcoe, who had 
himself been a British ofticer in the Revolutionary war, and had in that capacity become ac- 
quainted with Alexander Macdonell, appointed the latter Sheriff of the Home District, which 
included both Newark and York. As a trustworthy member of the Governor's suite he accom- 
panied him on the trip ilescribed in the diary subjoined. SherilT .Macdonell represented the 
Clengarry district for some time in the Legislative Assembly of Upper Canada, and was at one 
time .Speaker of the House. When the war of 1812-14 broke out he was appointed Deputy 
Paymaster-Cieneral, with the military rank of Colonel, while his cousin and/;v/4iC, John Mac- 
donell of Glengarry, joined the staff of (jeneral IJrock, with whose renuiins his, and his alone, 
lie interred under the monument on Queenston Heights. Col. Alexander Macdonell was taken 
prisoner at the ca|)ture of .\iagara in NLiy, 1S13, and was detained till the close of the war at 
[^ancaster, Pennsylvania, where his father had been kept a prisoner in 1776, as narrated above. 
.\lter his return to Canada he held various jiublic (lositions, and in 1831 created a member 
of tile Legislative Council of L'pper C.inaila. An active and earnest member of the Koniau 
Catholic church, he rendered great assistance to his cousin, Hishup Macdonell, in building up 
that religious community in this Province. In 181S he erected the still prominent r(t*4dence on 
the Northwest corner of John and Adelaide streets, and at his hospitable table most of the 
eminent men in the Province were at one time or another entertained. He was tall and com- 
numding in figure, but quiet and somewhat reserved in maimer, and could talk fluently in the 
(i.relic, I'Vench, and Indian toni^ues. Colonel Maedouell died in his own residence in 184.;, 
leaving behind him five sons, one of whom, Mr. Alexander Macdonell, now Clerk of Process at 
Osgoode Hall, has long been the careful custodian of thiTdiary here i)rinted for the first time. 
The Historical .Section of the Canadian Institute liaa passed a resolution thanking .Mr. Mac- 
donell for permission to print the diary, and respectfully requesting him to have it placed for 
permanent preserv.ition in one or other of the public libraries in 'I'onuito.] 

1793. September 24th. — Lieutenant Pilkington uf the R. E., Lieutentint 
Darling of the 5th Regiment, Lieutenant Givens of the 2ntl Rangerr, antJ 



W. Aitkcn, D.P.S, witli two Lake LaClaii' ami two Matchctaclu' Bay 
In liana, emliarkoil in a battoau, iind wont tliat nifi;ht to Mr. St. .lohn's, on 
the River Hutnbor. 

2.0tli. — Got up at (lajl'reak to pr{>|)are inatters for our journey. IHh 
Excelltnoy, Lieutenant-Governor Sinicoo, joined us IVoui York. We 
siiortly allerwanls were n a ly timl cntcroil the woods, kcuping our course 
about N.N. \V., cro.^scd a loni^ pine ridj^'e. About one o'clock, dined upon 
a small river which eniiilies itsell into thf Ilinnber, and, lo make tlio loads 
lighter, took the bones out of the pork. After dinner, re-loaded our horses 
and pursued our journey. Abrmt lour nV-lock, it bei|;inaing to rain, we 
encamped on the side of the llumber, at the west extremity of the 3rd con- 
cession. We here got some wild grapes and a ((uantity of crawfish. 

2t>th. — .At eight o'clock continued our journey. Fn the early part of 
the day, went over a pine ridge ; but from ten till six in the evening, when 
we eneampcd, went tlnoutrh excellent land for grain or grass, the trees 
uneoninioidy large and tall, especially the pine. Crossed two small crei-ks 
wliieh emptied themselves into the llumber, on one of which (Druidicn 
Creek) we dined, and encamped on the second The land through which 
we passed is chiefly wooded with maple, bass, beech, pine and oeda'-. 
During this day's miueh we passed the encampment of an Indian trader, 
who was on his way to his wintering ground on Lake LaClaie. 

27th. — Proceeded on early in the morning. Shortly after leaving our 
fires went through a ridge of very tine pine, u liicli appeareil to l)e bounded 
by a deep ravine to the north. After crossing in an oblif|ue direction tlie 
pine ridge, went over excellent laml, black rich mould; timber, maple, 
beech, black birch, and bass. Crossed a ravine and ascended a small 
eminence of indiii'erent land. This height terminated in a point, and a 
gradual descent to the lliver Ilumbei', which we crossed. We dined here, 
and remained two hours to refresh ourstdves and horses. While at dinner, 
two men with two horses, who left the end of the carrying place in the 
morning, met us. They were going to l)ring forward tiie trader which we 
passed the preceding day, and his goods. Alter dinner proceeded on. 
Went over very uneven grouml, the soil in some places inditferent, but in 
general not bad laml. Saw some very fine yellow pine and black birch. 
About six o'clock came to the end of the carrying place and encamped. 
Here found Mr. Cuthbertson, Indian trader, and owner of hut we passed 
the day before, encamped. 

28th.— .\fter breakfast, Messrs. Givcns and Aitken, with two Indiatis 
and two white men, went up the river for three canoes which had been 
previously provided for the Governor, and I went with three ran^rors to 

Iti8y-'J0.] IHAUV or UOVKitNOH sIMtOE. J 

erect a stage near the river to put the pork, &c., on when brought down 
from the oncjunpmcJit. I hiving acooin)ilistie(l this, upon our return wo cut 
a few trees to make a bridge upon a pass in the swamp. Keturned to 
camp about two u'chjck, and sliortly afterwards to the stage with seven of 
the rangers, all with packs whieh we put upon the stage. We here met 
Messirs. Givens and Aitken, having' returned with the canoes. The whole 
then returned to camp only me, who remained ti» take care of the baggage. 
In about two hours the wlmle came d.iwn, and we immediately embarked 
into five canoes, viz., the G(n'crni«r, Mr. Aitken, an Indian, and two 
rangers in one; Messrs. Pilkington and Darling, with their tv,-o servants in 
the second ; ^^r. Givens and two Indians 'n a third; an Indian and two 
rangf'rs with me in the fourth ; and Mr. Aitken's surveying party in the 
fifth. AVe dragged our canoes till we came to the river, over a part of the 
swamp where it would l»e impossible to walk without their support, it being 
a quaginii^'e, the skin or surface of which was verv thin. Proceeded 
aitout a mile ;ind a half or two miles abmg the river, which in this shurt 
distance has several turns. Went about a (juarter of a mile up a smaller 
river which empties itself into the former, and encamped. Soon after 
making our fires, the Great Tail and lii.s family < Messessagues), who vn'.re 
encamped further up the river, came to visit their Great Father, the Gover- 
nor, to whom they presented a pair of ducks, some beaver's meat, and a 
beaver's tail. Ilis Excellency gave them .lome rum and tobacco. 

2l)th. — Embarked into our canoes in the same manner as the preceding 
day, paddled down the river, which is a dead water, bordered on each side 
with (fuagmires similar to the one we hauled our canoes over. About two 
hours after leaving camp, Mr. Givens came into ni\' caiioe and the Indian 
went into his; but our canoe made much water and we could not keep up 
with the others ; we shortly after got the Indian back again. At twenty 
minutes after one we entered Lake La(Maie, now Lake Simeoe, so called in 
memory of Captain Simeoe of the R. N. At the entrance of the lake wo 
saw two canoes, who upon seeing us paddled oti to their village, which was 
upon a point about four miles otl", to apprise thein of the (Tovernor's arrival. 
We paddled on towards the poiiit and p.assfd the village close in shore. 
The Itxlians who were by this time assembled, fired a j'<it (fn Jti'r to eom- 
Itliment His E.xcellency, which we answered with three cheers, and then 
doubled the point, and put on shore in a small sandy bay to dine. 8o«>n 
after our landing the Indians came in a body to wait on the Governor, to 
whom they presented a beaver blanket, whicti he declined taking then, but 
promised to take it upon his return from Matchctaehe Bay. They were all 
more or less drunk ami made rather an unintelligible speech. They got 
liquor from four Canadians wiio had been sent from Matchetache Bay by 


Cowan, an Indian trader, to buy corn. \l\^ Excellency was sorry that he 
could not 3C0 Keeiiecs. the chief of the village, with whom ho was acquaint- 
ed, as he was daiigeronsly ill We left our smallest oaiif>e here, and got 
one Indian in lieu of the two Indians belonging to the village, who preferred 
remaininnr to proceeding on the journey. Alter dinn(;r we re-embarked, 
and the wind being fair, hoisted sail, and about dark put on siiorc and 
encamped in a cedar grove about six miles from the village 

iiOth. — l>eft our encampment abont ten o'clock. Mr. Givens was taken 
into the Governor's canoe, and in his plac(; one of the rangers put into mine. 
Sailed on with a strong breeze about si.\ niilo::, and it blowing too fresh 
to cross Kempcnfelt Hay, put in at Point Endeavour, when' we remained 
till two o'clock, and dined. After dinner, the winu moderating a little, 
we again hoisted sail and crossed tjie bay, which is between seven and eight 
miles dee)i ind four and five wide. We hud scarcely got over when the 
wind blew hard ahead, and it beginning to rain we encamped in a pleasant 
spot on the side of the lake. 

October 1st. — Embarked about eight o'clock, and having a contrary wind 
had to paddle against a head swell, which impeded our going much, and 
frequently dashed water into our catiocs. Put in for a few minutes to 
take the bearings at a blutf point about six miles from onr last encampment. 
This being accomplished we coasted close in shore for .■'ome time and, the 
wind abating, made for an islaml near the head ot the lake, and landed 
there about two o'clock, and dined. This island, now Francis's Island is 
pleasantly situateil, having a fine prospect of the lake. Tlie Indians used 
to raise corn upon it, but have not for some time. It is ((uite covered with 
long grass. About two o'clock we embarked, .and shortly after leaving the 
island entered a small straight, near the far extremity of which we saw 
two Indians in a canoe paddling across. 80 soon as the Indian in the 
(iiivrrnor's canoe perceived thorn he ^ave th(> death hallow: the stransre 
Indians made for land, and we, seeing the, Avigwam, followed. So soon as 
our Inoian gi>t near enough to be heard he made a melancholy detail of 
the number of deaths that had lately lia|ipened among the Lake Sinicoo 
Indians, and closed his sp'-eoh with saying "that the end of the world was 
at hand, Indians would be no more.'' An old Indian, owner of the wig- 
wam, gave a similar unpit asant account of the great sickness in his neigh- 
bonrhood also, aiid added that he expcct(;d bis eldest son would soon 
change his climate, and that nothing but his being unwell prevented his 
going to bis wintering ground. His ICxcellency made this family a small 
present, and we parted. Soon after leaving them, the wind turning fair, 
we hoisted sail. At this place the lake widens, and is interspersed with 
small islands, on some of which the Indians bad planted corn, turnips and 

1 880-90. J DIARY OK (ioVKKNOH KIMrOK. B 

squashes. About sunsot pot lo thr hoiul of tho lako, ontorod tlio river Mat- 
chctachc, and cncainpod. 

2nd. — Proct'edod down the river, and in the space of two hours had to 
carry "ur canoes, iVc , over two portages. A short distance hehtw the first 
carrying pUice the Bhick Ilivr empties itself into the Malchetache, and 
changes the coh>ur ot tliat river from clear to a dusky brown, which it does 
not vary until it ent<r8 the bay of the same name, upon Lake Huron. 
Below the second carrying place the river widens, and at about a distance 
of six or seven miles from it we crossed a small lake about six miles iu 
circumference. Put on shore and dined upnn a point where wo got various 
kinds of berries. Mr. I'ilkington's canoe and mine being Itjaky were 
hauled out of the water and gummed well. After dinner puslied oft', and 
about sunset came to a third carrying place, where, after hauling up our 
canoes, wc encamped. This place is said to be ni'icli infested with rattle- 
snakes ; it certainly has much the appearance of it, being almost a solid 
rock, with a few scrubby pines and oaks growing on it. Jidin Vincall, of 
the rangers, eut one of his toes almo.^t otl" here To the left of the carrying 
place is a handsome fall, and below that an impetuous rapid. 

3rd. — Had the canoes, &c., carried across early in the morning, and after 
breakfast proceeded down the river. Went through several rapids and 
crossed two more carrying places. At 2 o'clock arrived at, and had every- 
thing carried over a filth jmrtage. The scene of this place is pleasing and 
roraantick ; the portage is a solid, level rock with a few small pines and oak 
growing out of the rents. The falls rush, as may^ bo easily conceived to be 
the ease, from an body of water, having a great dese. nt, and lieing 
condensed between two rocks, at not more than fifteen feet asunder. 
After dinner continued our journey, and soon after crossed a sixth portage. 
Shortly after re-embarking it began to rain, and we encamped upon a small 
island about two miles beh)W the last mentioned carrying place. 

4th — Loaded our canoes early in the morning and embarked. The winii 
being fair, hoisted sail, and in about three or f<»nr hours arrived at a seventh 
and the last carrying place. Having crossed our canoes, &c., and again 
re-embarking, at 11 o'clock we entered Matchetachc Bay. The Indians 
being apprised, by an express across the C(»untry from Oakland Point, of 
the (jiovernor's being near at hand, were assembled upon a point a short 
distance from the last carrying place. Upon seeing them we made towards 
them. Wiien we got within a few yards ot' the shore they complimented 
Uis Excellency with vl fiu de joie^ which we answered with three cheers, 
and immediately landed. At'ter all the Indians had shook hands with the 
Governor, the chief presented him with two dozen ducks. His Excellency 
thanked him, and told him he would be happy to see him and his band 

6 THANHAcrroNs OP Tin; (ANvnrAN in.stitl'te. ( Voi,. I. 

in tho evening' at Mr. Cowan's, on the oppoHite sidi' of the l»ay, Re-ein- 
h.irkcil, lui'I rtiiihil across in littK- more than an hour ; it blew so fresh 
hf'forc w(> arrivod that we wt-rc nhlij^cd to Ifiwcr our sails. I'pon landing, 
unl'iadcd iind hanh'd u[) mir faiiocs, i'n(anij>od in the woods a small dihtance 
from the lako, anil al)out half a mih^ fntni Mr. Cowan's houso, or rather 
fort, for it i:> a square stockado ; his house is in one, his store opposite to 
it in aniitiier, an out-house for potatoes, corn, &e., in a thii'd, and the gate 
in the fourth He does not allow the Indians to get drunk within the 
garrison. Soon after we had encamped the Indians arrived, and the 
Governor made each of them a present of tohaceo. Ahout eight o'elock, 
Mr. Cow III, who had hecn out liiinling all day, returnc(|. lie sent His 
K.xeolleney some ducks, and shortly afterwards came to pay hi.s respects. 
Mr. (,'()Wan is a decent, vespectalde looking niin, and much liketl l>y the 
Indian^, lie wa.s taken jirisoner by thi' French at Kort Pitt, during the 
w,ir of '5S and '*>!•, wlifii a hoy. He has aiiopted all the customs and 
manners of the Cariailians, and speaks niueh better French than English. 
lie has been settled af Matchetaelie upward-J of fifteen years wirhout once 
going to Lf>wer Canada. Me makes an annual trip to Michillimaekinac to 
meet his supplies there and forward his furs to Montreal. He has in 
treneral six Canadians eniraired w ith him, and is well known to that class 
of people by the name of Constant. 

5th. — y\i\ Cowan having been desired by the Governor the preceding 
evening to attend ne.xt morning to interpret, arrived after we hail break- 
fasted, and the indiatis being met, addressed His Excellency in the usu;d 
manner: " They were liappy to see him in good health and thanked him 
for taking the trouble of visiting thom in then- own country, v.^'c." The 
Governor replied that he would always be glad to hear of the prosperity 
of the Indians, and eiitreateil them to attend to their hunts, and told them 
that he wished for nothing more than seeing them and his children, the 
whites, live in iiarmony together, and mutually assist each other. He 
promised them a keg ol rum whieh should lie delivered to them the day 
of his departure from the bav, and told tin- chief he would senil him from 
York a silver medal and a Hag, the usual liadges of distinction which this 
chief had not as yet received. Thoy then shook hands and went otf well 
satisiieil. 1 must here observe that the Lake Simcoe Indians were much 
mortified at the Governor not takins the beavor blanket when offered to 
him. This they eommunieated to the Matehetache Indians by the express 
which went ovirland ; and they simply replied that their father did right 
not to take it, that they should have made his bed upon his arrival at York 
(as thoy did I, and not wailed lor his arrival in their village. The Matche- 
taelie ImVians had jnade his bed at York by presenting a beaver blanket. 

|f<f^!l-0O.] DIAIIV OK (liiVKIINoR flIMCOK. f 

Snon iiftor the tliparturo <»f tlic Iiiiliiins, lli.s Kxcellon(;y, Mr. ('(man, jiiid 
tlio fTontlonion of liis party oiiiKarki-.l in one of Cowan's lar;rt' caiioi's, 
wi.iked by five C'anadianB, (leaving tlu> rangers, iScc, at the encninpnuMit) 
intonijinjr t<< visit Pcnetangnasliin, :i place supposoil to lie a good liarhour 
f >r vcs.nels. Tlic wind blew so fi'csli tliat we could not rtVect oiii' purpt)se, 
("specially as we had a wide traverse to make. We, however, landed upon 
an island called by Mr. Cowan. " IMaee la Traverse/' We got to a point 
(ip|)osite to it, and had an anif)l(; view of ii, and from its appearance and 
the account Mr. (V)wan gave of th<' l<'pth of water, I believe His Excellency 
was satisfieil with its sufficiency for the reception of vessels of eighty or 
ninety ton9. To judge from the wood, the laml about it seemed to he very 
good. It lays about .-ix miles within Matcbetache Bay, and nearly nine 
miles from Mr. Cowans'. We walked a mile and a half or two miles further, 
and hail a fine view of Lake Huron, then returned to the canoe and dined. 
After dinner reembarked, the wind beieg fair, hoisted sail and arrived at 
our encamj)ment about an hour sifter sunset. 

(itli. — Tietween nine arnl ten o'clock left our encampment, launched our 
canoes, and set otf ot\ our return home. Put in at the j)oint where we had 
met the Indians on the morning of the -kh instant, and His Excellency 
gave them the keg of rum agreeable to his promise. After some little 
ceremony on their part in wishing us favorable weather and a clear day, t&c , 
we pushed oft' from shore, upon which they saluted as tiiey did the day we 
arrived in the bay, and we answered as before witli three cheers. I'addled 
on and soon arrived at the carrying place ; br(mglit everything across and 
without halting pursui d our journey, went about five or si.\ miles further 
on. and landL-d upon an island. One of our Indians getting sick, Mr. Givens, 
with a white man and the other two Indians, returned to the })oint to bring 
back the sick man and get aiiMther in his place ; but before they got down, 
the Indians on the point had paid their devoirs so very attentively to the 
rum keg that they bad not the use of their limbs or reason. Finding that 
none would come with him, aiul expostulation being vain, he put the sick on shore, pushe(l oft", and joine<l us iu the evening. Finding it too 
b'e to proceed after ^fr. Givens' return we encamped where we were. 

7th. — (rot everythjjig on boiird before sunrise. In consc((uence oi' our 
Icsing an Indian the preceding day, the one thut was in in^' Ciinoe was 
removed to the GovernorV, and one of the rangers sent in to mine in lieu. 
Paddled up the river and got over two carrying places, upon the second of 
which we breakfasted, the s;ime on which we dined on the ;^rd. After 
breakfast His Excellency and the gent.hnitn of the party crossed to the 
opposite side of the river to view a fall which could not be seen from that 
we were upon. Having satisfied our curiosity we recrosaed, embarked 


into our difforcMit ciinocs. lunl pu.xliiMl off. {'rosscd t o more rnrrying 
places, upon tijc ><('coinl of which wc ciioanipeil about suiiHot, the oiu' upon 
which wc slept the ni^'lit of tl>f 'Jritl 

8th. — Some of the canoes bciii^; haky were here j^umnied. after which .we 
got on board, pachMcd pretty hard, crossed the two roniaininj^ (!arryiiig 
jdacca, and half an hour before sunset got to the; head uf the hike, and 
encamped on the spot we had occupied on the Ist. 

SHh. — Einliarkeil after breakfast, and having padilled against a head 
wind and swell Jirrived at Francis' Island at twelve o'clock. His hiXcel- 
lency did ititend g(»ing from this island round the opposite side of the lake 
to what we had come, but finding only four days' ))ro\i»ions rnnaijiing, 
and not knowing what time it would t.ike us by so doing, no judged it 
more expedient to return by the way we had come ; therefore, after dinner 
got on b.iard. crossed to the main land and before sunset encamped where 
we had slept on the o<>th of September. 

1 0th. — (Jot into our canoes before sunrise, being fearful that we woidd 
have the wiml ahead aiul wishing to cross Kenipenfelt Bay before it blew 
too hard. < 'ur apprehensions were confirmed. The wind began to rise, 
but wc luckily got over the bay before the lake was too rough. Put on 
shore and breakfasted at Endeavour Point, lie-embarked and co:isted along 
shore. At one o'ck>ck put in, and dined about two miles' dislaiice from the 
village. Having ditiod and got on board w(> paddled on and soou came 
abrea&t of the village. The Indians lired a fc^t <le joie, and we gave 
three cheers. Got round the point, put on shore in a 8U»all bay, hauled our 
canoes on shore and encamped in (he rear of the village. While wo were 
making up the fires and preparing everything for the night, His Excellency 
humanely went to pay a visit lu Keenecs, the chief, who, as I have already 
mentioned, was dangerously ill wlien we passed on our way to Mutchetaehe 
Bay, but on his getting to bis wigwam he was informed that he 
had been dead for some days. A man possessed of less sensi- 
bility and feelings than the Governor would have been bhocked on this 
occasion, but his were plainly painted on his countenance upon his return 
to camp. About six o'clock a number of squaws came to visit the Governor. 
Two of them carried the inniges ot their deceased husbands, dolls ;ibout two 
feet long decorated with silver broaches, feathers, ])aint, Arc, if a chief, as 
Was the case with one of these (Keenecs), his medal is hung to his neck, 
the face painted black. Hi.-, Excellency gave them some knives and look- 
ing-glasses, and shortly after they retired. At « o'clock the Indians came 
in a body, and being seated around the lire each got a dram and a piece of 
tobacco, after which the chief got up, thanked their Great Father, and 
presented him witii the beaver blanket, which he spread under him. He 


tlunsaid: "You white men pray; we poor Indians <lo not know wiint 
it is, but wn h«)pe you will entreiit tht> (iroat Spirit to rciuove the sick- 
ness from amongst us." To which the Governor roplieil that they shou'l 
certainly be rcinenjbercd in the prayers of the whites. He then ordered 
them a ke); of nun, and they went awiiy perfectly happy, and hi<:hly 
pleased that the blanket was accepted, and that they had inatlc their 
Father's bed. 

1 1th. — About!* .''i^lock left our encauiiiiiicnt, eniharke<l, und soon got 
out of the lake, paddled up the river al»out three niilo.s, and then jrot into 
another rivor, and about two o'clot'k ;»ot to the landinj^ place at tlie red 
pine f(>rt. His Excellency findin;» that .lohn Vin(^nll, the man who cut his 
toe on the 2nd, could not walk, desired Mr. (iivenn, hia servant, and nio 
lo reni:iin with him, and that upon his arrival at York he would send a 
liorse to meet us at the oM carrying place, for the man to ride; therefore 
after dividino^ o',r little stock of prt)visi<tn and dinin;» together we parted ; 
the Governor and the rest of the party ;.r<»i'»g to York by a new route, 
Givens, McEwen, Vincall, and myself remaining. Tt beginning to rain 
we encamped there that night. 

12th — Got into our canoo before sunrise, paddled down the river till 
between S and 9 o'clock, then put on shore to eat breakfast, which having 
done, re-eiiibarkeil and made the best of our way to the place where we had 
encamped on the night of tlie 2Sth of September, which we reached about 
sunset. Saw many ducks, but so wild that we could not get within shot of 
tlieni; killed only one mud hen. 

I3th — Mr. Givens and his servant went out very early in the morning to 
hunt ducks. Vincall and I remained behind tn pound and boil Indian corn 
lor our breakfast They returned about two o'clock with two ducks only. 
About half an hour before sunset Mr. Givens and 1 went up the river to 
get some birch bark to make torches with to spear tish. On our way up 
fired repeatedly at ducks without any success ; killed one but could not find 
it. Having put on shore about two miles up the river and got u sufficiency 
of bark returned to our encampment at 8 o'clock. 

14th — Got up at day break, and while preparing to c;o to hunt found 
that we had but two quarts of corn, and a small piece of pork remaining. 
Mr. Givons and I therefore resolved to go back to the Indian village, to get 
some supplies. After eating about a pint of corn and a small piece of pork 
embarked into our canoe, and shortly after leaving camp, the wind being 
fair, hoisted sail. We were very soon after forced to lower it, as it blew 
too fresh ; cut otl" about two feet of the mast, reefed the sail, and hoisted it 
again. We shortly after met the Great Tail and his family in two canoes 


going to their wintering,' (.ground. We gave liim some powder and shot ; he 
trave us two ducks, and promised to take care of our iiien until we returned. 
Sailed on, and near the entrance of the lake we mot two canoes with two 
Indians in each. Got eight ducks from them for powder, shot, and a 
looking glass. Ifaulod the canoe on shore, made a fire, and gum'd her. 
Having made her as tight as we could, we again pushed off, hoisted sail 
and, passing the village, landed in the bay where we dined on the 29th 
September. Hauled the canoe on shore, turned her upside down, and 
made a fire. It being late when we arrived we had not time to get much 
wood, had scarcely sufficient to broil two ducks for supper. It beginning 
to rain, and the wind shifting suddenly about, we were forced to carry 
our canoe, &c., to the opposite side of the fire, and turned our backs to 
the lake. Crent under the canoe, and parsed a very uncomfortable night. 

15th. — Early in the mornl.^g three squaws came down to gum our cyinoe, 
and the Indians bartered as much corn with us as we wanted. It blew so 
hard that we could not possibly set out on our return, and it being too cold 
to remain on the beach went further into the woods to encamp. We 
lamented much not being able to return to our men, the more so as they 
luid but a scanty allowance of provisions when we left them, although we 
took none from them. About two o'clock we broiled a couple of ducks, 
and breakfasted. Shoitly after two squaws came down to our tire with 
more corn to sell. We told them we bad enough to bring us home and 
wanted no more, that we were chiefs, not traders. We gave them a few 
broaches and some ribbon, and desired them to carry their corn home. 
In the evening two more came on a similar errand, and we made the 
same reply as to the former two. They brought us a sufficiency of fire- 
wood, for which we gave each a ribbon. They then left us, and we had no 
more offers of corn to barter. Being sleepy we went early to bed, but 
were both too unwell to get any rest. 

10th. — Got up at daylight, tho' still very sick, but, seeing the necessity 
of returning to our men, launched our canoe, put everything on board, and 
pushed off to go to Mr. Cutlibertson's (an Indian trader), on the opposite 
side of the lake. Putting the canoe in tlie water was a disagreeable task, 
as it had frozen hard the night before and was then so cold that the water 
froze upon our pa(blles. About half way over to the trader's Mr. Givens 
^ot so very sick that he could not paddle, and as I was also unwell and 
not able to work now, we were a considerable time in getting across. 
Upon our arrival Mr. Cuthbertson received us very hospitably. He gave 
us chocolate for breakfast which revived us. Finding that in our then 
situation we could not bring the canoe up by ourselves we hired an fndian, 
and Mr. Cuthbertson let us have one of his men to help us. Having got a 


j^alloii of spirits from him we started. Soon after embiirkint; we found the 
canoe still leaked, therefore put on shore iit the Indian village, hauled 
licr uji and gummed her. We saw there only one old squaw and a boy, 
alt the rest having gone oft' that morning to their wintering ground, and 
they were soon to follow. At 12 o'clock left the village. When we 
eanie to the forks of the river we saw an e-igle sitting on a nniskrat 
hi'Use. The Indian in tiie bow fired, hut in vain, being oidy loaded with 
duck shot. At eight o'clock we reached our encampnicnt, and tlio' we were 
apprehensive that our men had t^uff'ered iluring our absence we found upon 
enquiry that they had fared much better than we had, the Great Tail 
having supplied them with duck and Indian corn. 

ITth. — A little after sunrise Mr. Cuthbertson's man and the Indian 
jiarted with us. We gav(! them our canoe to bring them back. Soon 
after the Great Tail (who lm(^ encamped on the opposite side of the river) 
j'aifl us a visit, and brougiit us four duck. We thanked him for the 
<are he had taken of tin; men in our absence, and told him that it would 
please their and our fatliei at York, as he wished for nothing more than 
^llrh tnutual good offices between the Whites atul Indians. This being 
the sixth day since we j)arted with the Governor, and the day by him 
.ippointed for oni- cros.'-ing to the beginning ot' the j)ortage, we |>rovi(|ed 
rorii for two days, burrowed a canoe from the Great Tail, and enil)arked. 
Wc soon reached the stage which we bad erected on the 28tb, and in 
two trips carried everything up t > our old encampment. When we 
returned to the stage the second time we there met two of tiie Great 
Tail's sons, who came to bring three more duck and bring back the canoe 
we bad l)orrowed. We gave the boys a few yards of ribbon each, an<i 
liHii given thei'' tather at parting in the morning all the powder and shot 
that we c(»uhl spare. They were satisfied and we were jtleased. Soon 
after encamping and putting on the fire a kettle lull of Indiui\ corn and 
a tew ducks tor our supper, Sergeant l\Iailey and another man ot the 
Rangers, guided by one of the tliree Itidians who went with His E.xcel- 
lency (the other two. remained behind them a short distance) arrived from 
"^ ork with a horse for the lame man. The Governor was please<l to send 
11^ by them brandy, wine, tea, sugar, ]iork, atid bread. We made a hearty 
supper, ami concluding the evening with a can of grog to his health, went 
to be<l. 

istb.— The horse beinjr missed two of the men were sent in search of 
iiim, but returned unsuccessful. The Indian was then sent and in a very 
Miort time found him. Pack^id everything up; made otir packs, and 
when ready to start tlu^ two renuiining Indians arrived. Parted with 
them at eleven o'clock and marched on. At four o'clock arrived at 


the Ilninber, crossed it and encainpod, tlie horse being too much tktiguiMi 
to proceed, having had a forced march the preceding day. 

19th — Tim' It ruined all the night before, set out at daylight. At 
12 o'clock halted at the creek where we met the trader's tent on the •'♦^th, 
and breakfasted. At one o'clock continued our journey and at three 
came to the spot where we had encamped on the 25th, stopi>ed for about 
a quarter of an hour, then pushed on and arrived at St. John's a little 
past four in the evening, and slept there that night. 

20th. — Left St. John's after breakfast, atid arrived at the camp at York 
at ten o'clock, having been absent 27 days, without any accident happen- 
ing, excepting Vincall cutting his toe.